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Introduction to the Great Highland Bagpipe
Welcome to the world of the Great Highland Bagpipe!!
If you are new to the pipes, the Great Highland Bagpipe is the most
commonly seen style of the instrument in most parts of the world. It gets its name
from its most famous (or notorious) use in the highlands of Scotland where it has been
used for entertainment and an instrument of war for hundreds of years. The Great
Highland Bagpipe (hereafter referred to as "the pipes") is comprised of three
pipes called "drones", a "blowpipe", a "chanter",
a "bag", a "bag cover", and a set of
"cords". Each of these parts has its own purpose:
The Drones:
There are three drones on the pipes. Two of them, relatively smaller than the third,
are called "Tenor Drones". The third, larger drone is called the
"Bass Drone" (pronounced 'base'). In concert, their purpose is to provide the
'droning' sound, a low pitched hum, that is the foundation of bagpipe music. The
drones all play a constant note, if played properly, that is not considered alterable
during the performance of the music. The bass drone plays a single note pitched
slightly higher (sharper) than a concert B-flat. Eight notes higher, 1 octave, the
tenor drones play a concert B-flat and as a result should always match each other in
pitch. Before performing, a piper will 'tune' the drones by adjusting their length
so that the sound produced matches the two concert B-flats that can be produced by the
chanter. To keep the drones from flopping around in an uncontrolled manner, they are
tied to one another with 'cords'. Drone cords, usually made of silk or wool,
resemble drapery tie-back cords in construction and have tassels at each end.
The Chanter:
The chanter is the narrow conical tube held in the hands of a piper while
playing. It is the part of the pipes that is used to produce the melody. By
successively covering and uncovering various of the 9 holes on the chanter, the piper
alters its pitch and produces music (or so we all hope!). Some chanters have a 'sole' at
their bottom end for decorative purposes. A sole is usually a 2" - 3" plastic or
metal plate fitted to the end of the chanter. There is always a reed at the top of
the chanter that produces the sound as air is forced over it (unless the piper has soaked
his reed in Scotch and it/he/she is no longer in playing condition!).
The Blowpipe:
The blowpipe is the long narrow tube that the piper places in his mouth while
playing. It is used, as its name suggests, to blow air into the bag and subsequently
over the reeds and out of the drones and chanter. At the bottom end of the blowpipe
(toward the bag) there is a check valve that prevents air from flowing back into the
pipers mouth as he stops blowing to breath. Traditionally the check valves (flapper
valves) were made from leather which is still in use today. In more recent times,
synthetic valves of varying designs have been developed and are easily obtainable.
The Bag:
The bag is, of course, where the bagpipes get the first part of their name.
Its purpose is to provide an enclosed reservoir of air that can be forced over the
reeds to produce sound. All of the parts mentioned above are 'tied' into the bag
using one of several types of cord and the whole assembly is sealed against air leaks
using 'bag seasoning' (a liquid sealer applied to the inside of the bag). Though
bags have traditionally been made from cow hide or sheep skin, in modern times a number of
synthetic products have been developed. Most synthetic bags are made of Gore-Tex
fabric and have a variety of methods for attaching them to the pipes and controlling
moisture. Gore-Tex has been used, as it has in athletic apparel, because it is very
good at dissipating moisture and containing air at the same time. The bag is often,
though not always, decorated with a bag cover to make the pipes look more 'finished'.
Materials:
There are a number of different materials used in the components of the pipes.
The drones, blowpipe, and chanter are most commonly made from African blackwood, a
very dense hardwood indigenous to Africa. Blackwood is used because it is best
suited to withstand the constant temperature and moisture variations attendant with
periods of use and rest. Blackwood is generally thought to be the best material used
in pipes that are available on the market today. Other materials commonly used in
the pipes include Polypenco (Delrin), Ebony, Rosewood, Sheesham wood, and Cocus wood.
Polypenco is an industrial plastic that is easily tooled and inexpensive. It
is commonly used in the blowpipe mouthpieces, chanters, and practice chanters because of
its durability and consistency. Less commonly, it is used in complete sets of pipes.
Most bagpipes that are made of rosewood, sheesham wood, or cocus wood are commonly
considered inferior in quality, partly due to workmanship where those materials are used,
and partly to the nature of the woods themselves.
In addition to the materials used in the basic construction of bagpipes, there are many
materials commonly used in their ornamentation. Ivory, plastic, bone, antler,
marble, silver, nickel, brass, and stainless steel, are a few among many such materials.
These materials are typically used in ring caps at the tops of the drones, ferrules
and projecting mounts at the drone, chanter, and blowpipe joints, and for chanter soles.
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Learning to Play the Great Highland Bagpipe!
by
Frank Alderson
Learning to play the bagpipe is a journey,
not an accomplishment. You may play for the
remainder of your life and never feel you have mastered the instrument. However, most
people who achieve a modicum of success find that the rewards are great enough that it is
worth the work required to continue.
Playing the pipes is no simpler than learning many other more common musical
instruments and no less expensive, so you will want to find out as inexpensively as is
reasonable whether or not you will like the challenge enough to invest the time and
money required. Since we sell bagpipes and related supplies, it is our business to
encourage ever increasing sales, but it is far more important that each customer approach
piping in a way that will make the experience enjoyable and as easy as possible. The best
way to do this is to take advantage of all of the information that is available to you
from experienced pipers, from us, from other sources on the internet, and from writings on the
subject. If we can be of further help, please do not hesitate to ask!
In order to learn to play the bagpipe, you will need a practice chanter, a tutorial book,
and
an instructor. In lieu of an instructor, you can rely on an audio or video cassette which
is
a companion to your tutorial book.
A variety of books can be found in our catalog, but we usually recommend the College of
Piping Book #1. It has the most tutelage for the dollar and is widely used in the piping
community. Several of the available books have companion audio cassettes. The
College of Piping is no exception. These are useful to allow you to hear what the various
movements should
sound like since the musical notation employed in written music is not always precise
enough to allow you to play it correctly without interpretation from another source.
Before you spend money on an audio tape, however, we recommend that you find an
instructor in your area, if possible. He/She will have preferences as to the type of book
you use and may obviate the need for a tape. Your instructor may even have a preference
for a particular practice chanter, or may have one available to loan you for a while.
Practice chanters come in two sizes and two materials......Long length and regular length
African blackwood and plastic. The long practice chanters usually have countersunk
finger holes to help your fingers find the holes and hole spacing which matches that of a
bagpipe chanter. The regular length chanters normally do not have either of the
advantages of the long ones, but will save you about $25 and are quite serviceable
practice chanters. Blackwood chanters are generally prettier to look at, more
aesthetically pleasing than plastic, but they are also more fragile. Blackwood can crack
over time with the expansion and contraction brought about by the intermittent presence
of moisture from playing and are more susceptible to breakage if dropped. Plastic
chanters are quite durable and do not have the disadvantages of blackwood. Plastic
chanters are also $30 to $50 less expensive than their blackwood counterparts.
One material used in practice chanters which is I overlooked above is rosewood. Chanters
made from rosewood are generally entry level models made in Pakistan. These are good
choices if you are not sure you will enjoy playing the pipes and do not want to invest the
price of a more expensive chanter in finding out. I know of no long length rosewood
chanters on the market today.
It is my hope that the above has been helpful to you. Thank you for your interest in
Rocky Mountain Highland Supply.
Good Luck with your piping!
Sincerely,
Frank C. Alderson
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Maintaining Your Practice Chanter
PARTS:
- Mouthpiece
- Top
- Bottom
- Reed
- Sole (optional)
- Hemp or 'O'Ring joint
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The mouthpiece (1.) and top (2.) screw together
to form the top section of the practice chanter.
The top and bottom sections of the chanter fit snugly together
with the aid of hemp (6.) (or for J. Dunbar and D. Naill chanters, o-rings).
When separating or joining the top and bottom sections of the chanter,
always grasp the middle of the chanter with both hands and twist.
Never use any tool such as a knife or screwdriver to pry the sections
apart. If the top and bottom sections become so tightly joined
that they cannot be easily separated, set the chanter aside in a dry
place until it has a chance to dry. When dry, the sections will again
easily separate.
The reed (4.) is placed into the bottom section (3.) of the chanter and the top (1./2.)
is placed over it and around the hemp/o-ring (6.). NOTE: It is best never to handle
the blades of the reed while fitting or removing it as the blades can easily
become separated ruining the reed. Instead, grasp the reed near the bottom
and twist gently while pulling/pushing. The bottom of the reed is wrapped in hemp so
that it will fit snugly. It should stand up straight
and be snug enough that it stands by itself without wobbling or tilting.
If you have a wood chanter, you should ensure that the unfinished wood surfaces
are oiled with bore oil or almond oil on a regular basis. This will prevent
splitting of the wood due to expansion and contraction caused by moisture
from your breath.
If you have questions concerning chanter maintenance, please contact us at
Info@RMHS.COM or call 800-282-9351.
...and Good Luck with your Piping!
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Maintaining Your Bagpipes
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The following information is intended to help pipers to keep their instruments in good working order.
This is not intended as an exhaustive treatise, but a collection of helpful information that has been
gathered from experienced players and our own trials and errors. We hope it will be helpful to you
and would enjoy hearing of your maintenance ideas that serve to make playing the pipes no harder than
it has to be! So here goes...............
- Chanter
Many bagpipe chanters are made from Delrin or Polypenco (interchangeable terms).
Delrin is a black, easily tooled, and fairly inexpensive plastic that is very durable.
Chanters made from Delrin require very little in the way of maintenance other than
an occasional cleaning to remove built up oil and dirt from the finger holes. On a rare
occasion, it may be necessary to replace the hemp on the pin (that portion of the chanter
that fits into the chanter stock).
Bagpipe chanters made from african blackwood (the most common natural material) require
a little more attention. Since they are made of wood, a fairly porous material, they can
easily absorb moisture from the player's breath. When the wood absorbs moisture, it expands and
as the moisture evaporates, the wood contracts. A small amount of expansion/contraction
is normal and will not harm the instrument. However, if the amount becomes excessive
the result may be cracks in the chanter. If cracks develop in a chanter, it will
most likely be ruined.
To prevent excessive absorption of moisture, the piper only
needs to apply some sort of treatment to the wood that seals it. This is typically
done using 'bore oil' available from most music stores and (of course) Rocky Mountain Highland Supply!
Other fairly common sealants are almond oil, linseed oil, and olive oil. Only the unfinished surfaces
of the chanter need to be sealed. Generally, the unfinished surfaces will have a matte or dull
appearance as opposed to a high gloss finish. At a minimum, the inside bore of the chanter should
be sealed and, if the outside has a matte finish (probably oil rubbed), it too should be oiled lightly.
Oiling frequency will vary depending on the wet or dry nature of the player's climate and
the amount of playing done, but generally, it is wise to oil the chanter once every month or two.
(The more playing and the dryer the climate, the more frequently the chanter should be oiled).
- Drones/Stocks
Oiling
The drones will require the same general kind of maintenance as the chanter requires, specifically
oiling of the inside bores. Again, if the exterior of the drones has a matte or dull finish,
occasional oiling would be wise.
Particular attention should be given to keeping the stocks (the part of the drone actually
connected to the bag) clean and well oiled. Of all the parts of a bagpipe, the most
commonly damaged by moisture are the stocks. This applies also to the stocks for the chanter and blowpipe
and is because they are closest to the source of
moisture and accordingly absorb more than other parts. Many sets of pipes will develop
hairline cracks in the stocks that are not problematic. But if the cracks become large
enough to allow air to escape, the result will be a very difficult set of pipes to play.
Stock Joints
In addition to the oiling of the drones, proper maintenance of the joints is important.
The joints at the stocks should be kept tight enough so that the player cannot twist the
drone inside the stock with the thumb and two fingers of each hand. These joints are
pressure maintaining joints that when leaking air will cause the instrument to be quite
difficult to play, so they need to be snug. Care should be taken not to use brute force
to insert a drone into its stock as the stocks can be cracked in this manner. The material
used to seal these joints is usually referred to as 'hemp', though most often it is
yellow colored Irish shoe thread. More recently other materials have been used quite
successfully, specifically waxed nylon lacing cord and black waxed hemp. Apart from the
snugness of the joint, it is important to keep it sealed from moisture. This is generally
done by using a waxed material to wrap the drone pins (the parts that fit into the stocks).
If the wrapping material is not waxed or water resistant, it can expand with the absorption
of water and crack the stock around it. Another important purpose for the wax on the wrapping
material is that it will keep the wrapping from spinning around the drone pin. Loose wrapping makes it
difficult to extract the drone from the stock.
Tuning Joints
The other drone joints are dealt with in a slightly different manner. Though it is still wise
to use waxed material to wrap the pins, the joints when finished, should be tight enough so
that the drone section above the joint will not slip without manipulation, but loose enough
so that the sections can easily be moved with a thumb and a couple of fingers of one hand.
This allows for effort free tuning (notice I did not say painless!). These joints do not need
to be as tight as the stock joints because the air pressure from the bag is contained at the
stock joint by the joint and the reed.
- Blowpipe
There is very little maintenance requuired for the blowpipe in addition to keeping it well oiled.
We do suggest, however, that it is useful to remove the mouthpiece first and oil the threads where
it attaches. An occasional cleaning of the inside bore of the blowpipe will ensure that food particles
and dirt build-up is removed allowing for free air flow. Depending on the type of check valve
used, some cleaning of it may be appropriate. With the synthetic valves such as the Little Mac, occasional
cleaning of both sides of the rubber flapper will allow the valve to seal completely. If a leather
flapper valve is used, it may have to be replaced periodically as the leather wears out and fails
to seal properly. As with the drone stock joints, the blowpipe stock joint should be snug enough
so that the blowpipe cannot be twisted in the stock with the thumb and two fingers of each hand. This
will help ensure an airtight joint.
- Bag
Most synthetic bags require very little if any maintenance except to remove the collected moisture
from bags such as the Ross cannister or Shepherd synthetic bags. Canmore bags do not require
maintenance.
Hide bags do require regular maintenance in the form of 'seasoning' or sealing. Since leather is
an irregular material and since there are small holes in leather bags left by the sewing needle at the
seam, air leaks can develop over time. As pressure is applied to the bag, the leather stretches and a once tight
bag can begin to leak air. To stop air leaks, the hide bags should be sealed with one of a variety of
products referred to as 'seasoning'. This is usually done by removing all of the drones, the chanter,
and blowpipe from their respective stocks, sealing the stocks with corks or rubber stoppers (except for one),
and filling the bag with the contents of a bottle or can of seasoning through the open stock. The the remaining open stock is
corked and the seasoning manually worked into the seam and joints. When worked into the seam and joints,
the seasoning will seal small holes keeping the bag airtight. When finished working in the seasoning,
the excess is drained from the bag and the inside of the stocks cleaned to keep seasoning off of the reeds.
- Conclusion
We hope that this information has been helpful in keeping your bagpipes in good playable condition!
If you have any additional maintenance tips that might be helpful to others, please feel free to
contact us with them. We may decide to include them here for others' benefit.
Send your tips to info@rmhs.com
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